Nigeria's aso oke weavers caught between tradition and fashion
In Iseyin, the center of traditional aso oke weaving in Nigeria, artisans continue to use ancient techniques. They have achieved global success and their patterned fabrics have become a worldwide trend.
Handweaving a tradition in Iseyin
Vibrant fabrics are created in the narrow alleys of Iseyin. This small town in southwestern Nigeria is the center of aso oke fabric production. Aso oke is a handwoven fabric originating in the Yoruba culture. Here, tradition is not merely preserved — it is daily life, work and survival. The town, with a population of around 300,000, hums along to the rhythm of the looms.
Cut from a fine cloth?
Aso oke is more than just cloth. This thick, often colorful fabric speaks to one’s heritage and status. Once reserved for special occasions, aso oke is experiencing a global resurgence. From Lagos to London, traditional fabrics are being reimagined for modern wardrobes.
Conscientous resistors
Despite rising demand, many weavers in the city reject mechanical looms. Mechanization, they say, would destroy the soul of the fabric. The looms are old but many of the ideas are fresh: New patterns are often created in collaboration with designers.
Manpower needed
Two men prepare bundles of yarn for the aso oke weaving process. In the past, the fibers were spun and dyed locally. Processing cotton or silk was an extremely labor-intensive process. Today much of the yarn is imported.
A decent living
Ten years ago, Francisco Waliu traded his career as a nightclub singer in Lagos for aso oke weaving. At first, he struggled with the physical demands of the work, but he has never regretted the decision. "Today I earn a good living and I’m happy," says the 34-year-old. The traditional craft offered him a new outlook on life, he adds.
Contemporary designs
More and more young people are coming to Iseyin to learn the craft. Even college graduates are rediscovering weaving. They bring fresh designs and collaborate with graphic designers.
Tough work
It's not necessarily an easy job. Under scorching sun, weavers work for hours on narrow strips of fabric. The workshops are makeshift and the traditional weaving methods involve physical effort and health risks related to prolonged sitting.
Aso oke goes global
Aso oke is now often seen on fashion runways in Paris and London. Celebrities wear the fabric and designers are experimenting with new styles. Two years ago, during a visit to Nigeria, the Duchess of Suffolk Meghan Markle wore an aso oke wrap skirt and a shawl.
Opportunities and risks
As aso oke's popularity grows, so do the concerns. Its makers warn of cultural appropriation and cheap knockoffs. While aso oke is taking the world by storm, weavers are fighting to preserve its origins and significance. "There’s nothing wrong with other people wearing your culture," says Ayomitide Okungbaye. "It becomes problematic when appropriation occurs or people lay claim to it."