India: Kolkata's famous and dwindling Chinatown
The Indian-Chinese community has developed a distinct culture and cuisine over the generations. But with a shrinking population, it faces an uncertain future.
Early settlers
The city of Kolkata, in India's eastern West Bengal state, has been home to an Indian-Chinese community since the 18th century. Some estimates suggest it was once home to as many as 70,000 people. They largely settled in Cheenapara — the old Chinatown — an area still considered the heart of the city. Others also settled in Tangra, or the new Chinatown.
A unique melting pot
Kolkata's Chinatown offers a unique and rich blend of Chinese and Indian cultures and influences. This temple in Tangra, for instance, is known as the Chinese Kali Mandir. It was built by a Chinese immigrant. The temple is famous for serving, on occasion, chop suey noodles to devotees.
Born out of need
In the early days of old Chinatown, Chinese immigrants often worked as unskilled labor. Families used to cook food not just for themselves, but also for others in the Chinese community. A market for hawkers, known as Tiretti Bazaar, came into being. It was once famous for its Chinese breakfast. On Sundays, people visiting the market devour these treats.
Hyphenated identity of Indian-Chinese
The Indian-Chinese community here has developed a distinct culture and cuisine over generations. When the first set of Chinese migrants arrived here, they lacked access to Chinese ingredients such as cooking wine and Szechuan peppercorn. So they used what was available, like a combination of ginger, garlic and green chilies, to prepare their dishes.
No similarity to Chinese food
The Indian-Chinese cuisine now has little similarity to food in mainland China. Popular "Chinese food" in India such as chili chicken, Szechuan potato, Gobi Manchurian and chili paneer do not exist in China.
Indian-Chinese cuisine popular nationwide
The Indian-Chinese delicacies have gained popularity across India. They are offered not only by roadside vendors, but also fine-dining restaurants. In Kolkata, the cuisine is as popular as traditional Indian dishes.
Dwindling population
Even today, Kolkata has the highest concentration of Indian-Chinese people in India, even though their number has dwindled in size. Local estimates suggest there are now around 2,500 Indian-Chinese living in the city. There is, however, no official count. Many have moved to other Indian cities in recent years.
Geopolitical tensions
Many Indian-Chinese left Kolkata after the 1962 war between India and China triggered a backlash against the community. Younger generations have migrated to the West in search of better opportunities. Rising tensions between New Delhi and Beijing, and growing calls in India for a boycott of Chinese goods, have resulted in challenges for those who still remain.
Fading away
Several of the original Chinatown eateries have either shut down, due to a lack of maintenance, or been passed on to Indian owners. Of those that continue to operate, many are struggling to survive.
Uneasy at home
The Indian-Chinese community is facing a grim reality. They have lived in India for generations, intermarried, identify themselves as Indian, speak local languages and celebrate Indian festivals. Yet, they regularly encounter xenophobia. Despite the problems, the Indian-Chinese in Tiretti Bazaar appear reluctant to voice their concerns.