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Party on

Oliver MoodyJuly 9, 2014

World Cup host Brazil suffered an unbelievable defeat to Germany, losing their spot in the final match. But they're not taking it as badly as you might think, says our correspondent in Belo Horizonte, Oliver Moody.

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WM 2014 Brasilien gegen Deutschland
Image: DW/Oli Moody

Throughout the World Cup, people have told me that if and when Brazil go out, there would be trouble. The degree of the chaos predicted varied, with some even suggesting that full-scale riots would be on the cards. Most were far less sensational, but locals and tourists alike warned me to stay indoors if the unthinkable (if not improbable) happened.

Well, Brazil lost. And then some.

Germany's incredible 7-1 win over the hosts gave me the chance to see the reaction to Brazil's exit from their own World Cup up close. I had prepared myself for the worst, but as the goals flew past Julio Cesar it became clear that I had got it all wrong.

Police stand ready

Ahead of the game in Belo Horizonte, the atmosphere was friendly, the ribbing all good-natured, and the idea that the same people would turn the city over if their team lost seemed ludicrous. German fans moved from one camera to the next, as the Brazilians rushed to get a picture with their opponents. Their enthusiastic hand gestures indicated predictions of a glorious win for Brazil.

Travelling through the center of Belo Horizonte a little later, everything seemed calm until the bus rolled past two giant armoured vehicles. A small protest was taking place around the corner, but so few people surely could not have warranted such major defensive measures by the police. Could they instead be part of the preparations for a potential Brazil defeat?

Bars were beginning to fill with people by now, but there was no air of tension.

I joined the crowds heading to watch the game in Savassi district, which is renowned for having excellent nightlife, making it popular with young people. I saw only the same excitement I had become used to during other Brazil matches.

However, as we approached Praça da Savassi, where two big screens had been set up, we were faced with scores of police armed with guns and clubs. In the square itself more police watched over us from raised platforms, with a group of Germans congregating next to the foot of one of these towers.

By kick-off the atmosphere was fervent. For the first time I started to feel like the mood could turn nasty if the match went badly for Brazil. Of course, it went very badly indeed, and very quickly.

And then came defeat

When the first Germany goal went in the fans shouted at the screens. After the second some started to leave. And after the third, they started to laugh. So unbelievable were the scenes they were watching, so comically awful was their team's defending, that the Brazilians close to me could only shrug their shoulders.

Germany fans Belo Horizonte
Germany fans enjoy the party at the Mineirao stadiumImage: DW/Oli Moody

With the half-time score at 5-0, I thought at that moment either the people in the square would give up on the match and go home, or they would stay, but the atmosphere would be completely flat. The DJ started playing an upbeat pop song that I was sure would fall on deaf ears, but instead almost everyone in the crowd started dancing.

People were not just putting on a brave face, they were actually enjoying themselves. Having come to believe that violence was a real possibility in that scenario, seeing a party start up was somehow unnerving.

No one seemed particularly interested in the second half. Instead the spectators spent the remaining 45 minutes talking and dancing, and in the case of many couples locking lips.

There were a few ironic cheers when Germany added two more goals, and when Brazil finally scored themselves.

But really everyone was just waiting for full-time, and the chance to get on with the party. Few people headed for the exits when the final whistle went, by that time they weren't there for the football anyway.

Germans still welcome?

"Brazil is a party country," a Brazilian called Tatiane told me when I asked her about the reaction. "It's over, but I'm happy for the German fans."

Germany fans Belo Horizonte
Germany fans near vibrant Belo Horizonte post SavassiImage: DW/Oli Moody

But that doesn't mean she will get behind Germany for the final.

"They beat Brazil, so I can't support them. Argentina can't win either. It has to be the Netherlands," she added.

As Tatiane chatted to one of the few Germans in the crowd, I asked Felipe, himself German with a Brazilian mother, if he had heard the scare-stories about the aftermath of a Brazil defeat.

"Yes, but I'm not worried about wearing my Germany shirt at all," Felipe answered. "Brazilians like Germans, if it was Argentina then things might be different."

Upon leaving the area I came across even more police officers, some mounted on horses. But as I walked through the city back to my hotel, it was like any other Tuesday night. It is possible that elsewhere the thrashing may have caused a more serious reaction from fans, but at that moment the sheer volume of armed police seemed as ridiculous as my previous fears.

Brazil is often talked about almost exclusively through stereotypes, and the national obsession with football and the love of a party are probably the most common among them. The semi-final against Germany gave the country plenty of reasons to call it an early night, but here in Savassi at least they wouldn't let the humiliating defeat get in the way of a good party.