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French in a fizz over Russian 'champagne' law

July 6, 2021

Top champagne maker Moet Hennessey says it has temporarily halted deliveries to Russia over legislation that bans foreign wine producers from using the name "champagne."

https://p.dw.com/p/3w4nV
A cork bursts out of a champagne bottle
Russian President Vladimir Putin signed the law on FridayImage: picture-alliance/imageBroker/A. Cupak

French winemakers are frothing after Russia introduced a new law that bans them from using the term champagne.

Russian President Vladimir Putin signed the law on Friday that forces non-Russian products to describe themselves as "sparkling wine."

Under the law, only locally made Shampanskoye is worthy of the prestigious and previously exclusive name.

French champagne, a popular drink with the country's oligarchs, is not recognized under the appellation.

The move has angered producers in France's Champagne region who have jealously guarded the name and reputation of their famous drink — which includes some of the world's most expensive bubbly.

"The people of Champagne are calling on French and European diplomacy to try to have this unacceptable law modified," the Champagne Committee's co-presidents Maxime Toubart and Jean-Marie Barillere said in a statement Monday.

"Preventing the people of Champagne from using the name Champagne (in Cyrillic) is scandalous; it's our common heritage and the apple of our eye," the main industry body said.

Bottoles of Veuve Cliquot on ice
Moet Hennessy produces brands such as Veuve CliquotImage: picture-alliance/imageBroker/P. Seyfferth

Moet mulls next steps

But Moet Hennessy, part of the French luxury goods group LVMH that makes brands as Moet & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot and Dom Perignon, is currently mulling whether to rebrand its Russian-sold bottles to adapt to the new law.

Exports to Russia have been halted or the time being, company spokeswoman Anne Catherine Grimal told the RIA-Novosti state news agency.

"These provisions lead to a temporary suspension of deliveries of products to assess the impact of this new law," she was quoted as saying.

And the move could have diplomatic consequences.

French Trade Minister Franck Riester said that the government "will unfailinglysupport our producers and French excellence."

Since Soviet times, there have been several brands of "Russian champagne" on sale in the country.

But they go for as little as 150 roubles (€1.70, $2), which sits ill at ease with the French version's luxury image.

Russian producers left feeling flat

Even the chief executive of a top Russian winemaker found the law went too far.

Pavel Titov, who leads Abrau-Durso, told Radio France Internationale on Saturday that he would not be seeking to rebrand his own products as champagne.

"It is very important to protect the Russian wines on our market. But the legislation must be reasonable and not contradict common sense ... I have no doubts that the real champagne is made in the Champagne region of France," he said.

jf/rt (AP, AFP, Reuters)