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Two Nepali climbers break own Everest records

Timothy Jones with Reuters, AFP, dpa
May 17, 2026

Two veteran Nepali climbers, a man and a woman, have each set new records for ascents of the world's highest mountain. The 492 Everest climbing permits issued by Nepal for the 2026 spring season represent another high.

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 Mount Everest viewed from below
Everest remains one of the world's top mountaineering challengesImage: Pasang Rinzee Sherpa/AP Photo/picture alliance

Two Nepali climbers on Sunday broke their own records for the numbers of Everest ascents they have made in the male and female categories respectively.

One climber, Kami Rita Sherpa, 56, who is nicknamed the "Everest Man," scaled the 8,849-meter (29,032-foot) peak for a record 32nd time, while Lhakpa Sherpa, 52, known as the "Mountain Queen," made her 11th summit.

What do we know about the ascents?

Kami Rita reached the summit of Everest at around 10:12 a.m. (0427 GMT) at the head of an international expedition team, according to Mingma Sherpa, chairman of expedition operator Seven Summit Treks.

Llakpa Sherpa, who in 2000 became the first Nepali woman to successfully summit and descend the mountain, stood at the top at 9:30 a.m.

She formed part of an expedition run by the Seven summit club agency, according to Khimlal Gautam, coordinator at the Department of Tourism's Everest base camp.

Llakpa Sherpa in front of a poster advertising the film 'Mountain Queen'
A film has been made about the feats of Llakpa Sherpa [FILE: July 2024]Image: Charley Gallay/Getty Images/AFP

Both climbers, who belong to the Sherpas, an ethnic group native to Nepal's Himalayan region, began their careers as porters before becoming professional guides.

Kami Rita made his first ascent in 1994 while working for a commercial expedition.

Man in red jacket and blue and-red cap smiling
Kami Rita is seen here in late AprilImage: Purnima Shrestha/REUTERS

Renewed fears of Everest overcrowding

Nepal has issued a record 492 permits for people wanting to climb Everest this season.

As most mountaineers make their attempt accompanied by at least one Nepali guide, some thousand climbers are expected to ascend the mountain in the next few days.

The high numbers have fueled renewed concerns about overcrowding on the mountain, especially if poor weather shortens the period suitable for climbing.

Expedition operators say restrictions on the Tibet side of the mountain imposed by Chinese authorities have been one factor behind the increase in the number of climbers.

Delays in the opening of routes and unstable ice condictions have also shortened the window for climbing.

Everest can be climbed from both Nepal and Chinese-administered Tibet, but ascents from the southern, Nepali side are more frequent.  

Yellow and red tents amid snow and rocks, high mountains in background
The base camp at Everest is crowded with the tents of mountaineers and guidesImage: Pasang Rinzee Sherpa/AP Photo/picture alliance

Everest ascent remains dangerous

Although ascents of Everest have become relatively frequent since Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Edmund Hillary made the first confirmed climb to the summit in 1953, the feat remains perilous, with more than 320 people dying in the attempt since then.

Officials say between five and 10 climbers die on Mount Everest in an average climbing year.

Edited by: Dmytro Hubenko

Timothy Jones Writer, translator and editor with DW's online news team.
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