Nzulezo - Ghana's village on stilts
The inhabitants of Nzulezo live from and on the water. Their village on Lake Tandane in Ghana's Western Region is built on stilts. But that is not the only reason why Nzulezo is famous.
Ghana's Venice
Some 360 kilometers (224 miles) west of the capital Accra lies the village of Nzulezo. In the local language the name Nzema means "water surface" – very appropriate as the 500-strong community lies just above the dark waters of Lake Tandane. Nzulezo is the only village in Ghana built completely on stilits and is often referred to as "Ghana’s Venice."
Potential World Cultural Heritage site
In 2000 Ghana nominated Nzulezo to be added to the UNESCO list of World Cultural Heritage sites, saying the village was a perfect symbiosis of man and nature. No harm is done to the sensitive ecosystem. The Amansuri Wetlands, where the lake is situated, have an impressive range of flora and fauna. Countless rare bird species live here as well as monkeys, crocodiles and turtles.
Driven from their home
According to legend, the ancestors of Nzulezo’s inhabitants were from the ancient Ghana Empire in today’s Mali. In the 15th century, after a war fought with the Mande people over their fertile land and gold, they had to flee. Their god, it was said, appeared as a snail and led them to today’s Ghana. But they were repeatedly forced to move on by other ethnic groups or by slave traders.
Safe at last
The ancestors of the Nzulezoans continued to follow their god, the legend says, until they finally reached Lake Tandane. Here, after fleeing for many years, they did not need to fear further attacks. The lake would protect them against enemies and fire and would also provide food, their deity told them before placing them in the hands of the water god.
A shrine for the water god
Since then, the Nzulezoans have worshipped the water god. This shrine was built to honor him. Tuesday is considered to be a holy day, when fishing is not allowed. And women may not cross the lake when menstruating, they have to stay in the village. Many villagers abstain from eating snails out of respect for the god of their ancestors.
A modern village with TV and phones
Today, some 500 people live in the typical huts built from branches of raffia palm. Individual huts are linked by wooden platforms. Each family has its own street. They have electricity, satellite TV, a mobile phone network, and thanks to the project of a foreign oil company, they now also enjoy clean drinking water.
Teacher training
Teachers are provided by the government, most are university graduates who are sent to Nzulezo to widen their experience. But few stay long, they find life in the village too boring. For this reason, some village residents are now being trained as teachers. "They are familiar with life here and don’t disappear from one day to the next," says Nana Ette, son of the village chief.
Taking care with fire
Akyaa is making peanut paste for the midday meal. Behind her is smoke from the fire where mashed cassava will be cooked later. Since the wooden platforms are not fireproof, the women use traditional clay ovens to cook, like the ones used on the mainland. Toilet facilities in the swampland are built on a solid clay floor. Excrement is used as compost.
No food for lazy men
The villagers live from and with the water of the lake. The many fish provide them with their main source of protein. Boys learn at an early age how to repair and store the nets and how to build dams. "No food for lazy men" is a Ghanaian proverb that sums up the life of the fishermen here.
Fertile soil
Sengu Kulu and his son Eric are farmers, like many inhabitants of Nzulezo. On about two hectares (4.5 acres) of land near the lake’s shore they cultivate cassava, plantain, palm trees and pineapple, mostly for their own consumption. "The swampland makes the land very fertile and easy to farm," says Kulu. Surplus produce is sold at the market in Benin, six kilometers (3.7 miles) away.
The best gin in Ghana
Nzulezo is known beyond Ghana’s borders for its particularly tasty variety of the local gin Akpeteshi . All over the Amansuri Wetlands, small distilleries like this can be found. Palm wine from the raffia palm is distilled until the clear gin, which has a high alcohol content, remains. A liter (2.1 US pints) is sold for just under five euros ($5.5).
Trade with the capital
In one day, a gallon (about 3.7 litres) of Akpeteshi is produced from 14 buckets of palm wine. The alcoholic drink is poured into canisters and taken in a dugout canoe to the coastal town of Beyin which is linked to the lake by a canal. There, the gin is loaded on to trucks and transported to the capital Accra as well as to Ivory Coast.
Europeans also drawn to Nzulezo
The remote, idyllic life on Lake Tandane also attracts Europeans. A Spanish couple who have a restaurant on the canal between Nzulezo and Beyin has settled here. They have lived for many years in this house, built on stilts in the traditional style. Today it serves as a guest house for friends and relatives.
Living like a villager
Nzulezo depends on tourism. Many people take a day trip to the stilt village and then spend the night in the more comfortable beach resorts in Beyin. Anyone wanting to live like the villagers can stay at the “Home Stay” guest house. The village does not have a hospital, patients are taken to the next doctor by motorboat.
Ebola fears keep tourists away
Since the outbreak of the Ebola epidemic in December 2013, few foreign tourists now make their way to the stilt village. The local economy suffers as a result. Tourism has declined throughout the country, says Atta Mensa Kasapa, even though “Ghana was not affected by the virus.” He hopes tourism will soon pick up again and visitors will come and buy his carved wooden boats.