A tour of Ticino with Hermann Hesse

In 1919 Herman Hesse came to the canton of Ticino to stay. He found peace and inspiration in the picturesque landscape. His new home was near Lake Lugano, where he often went for walks. Born in Calw near Stuttgart, Germany, he lived with his family first on Lake Constance and later in Bern, Switzerland. He came to Ticino alone, leaving behind his failed marriage and his family.

In the village of Montagnola above Lake Lugano, the author rented four rooms in the Casa Camuzzi (left in the picture). The castle-like building was built by a Ticino master builder in the 18th century as a neo-Baroque palazzo. Next door (on the right) is the present-day Hermann Hesse Museum. A table with his books is an invitation to read.

The author's desk is in the museum, as is one of his typewriters. From his window, he could look into a Mediterranean terrace garden, which inspired him to create several scenes, such as the story ''Klingsor's Last Summer''. In the Casa Camuzzi many famous works were created, such as the Indian story "Siddhartha" and the world-famous "Steppenwolf."

Hermann Hesse was a keen hiker who explored Ticino on countless excursions. He wrote about a day in Carona, eight kilometers (4.9 miles) away, in the story "Klingsor's Last Summer." Hesse also went out into nature to sketch and paint. He particularly liked the churches in Ticino.

In the village Carona, Hermann Hesse met his second wife, Ruth Wenger. Hesse was often a guest in her family's house. He called it the "parrot house" because of the painting on the gable depicting a parrot. After only three years the marriage ended in divorce — their lifestyles differed too much.

Even before Hesse moved to Ticino, he liked to stay here: in 1907 he came to the spa on Monte Verità above Ascona. A colony of life changers had settled here. They lived anarchy, nudism, vegetarianism and provided for themselves. Today on the hill next to this sculpture by Hans Arp, there is a Bauhaus-style hotel and the only tea plantation in Switzerland.

Those who visit Hesse's former residence in Montagnola can walk on a circular path for about 2.5 hours following his tracks. The signposts bear the writer's signature. In 1931, Hesse moved from the Casa Camuzzi to his own house, which had been built for him by a patron: the Casa Rossa. His third wife, Ninon Dolbin, 20 years his junior, moved in with him. Casa Rossa is now privately owned.

Hermann Hesse knew exactly where he wanted to be buried: he chose the parish church of Sant' Abbodino. It is a little outside, about a kilometer and a half from the center of Montagnola. A narrow cypress avenue leads to the church. It was first documented in 1372, and inside it is decorated with elaborate paintings and stuccoes.

Hermann Hesse found his final resting place on the adjacent cemetery. His gravestone is in the shape of an open book. To this day, admirers come here to feel close to the world-class writer. He died of a stroke on the night of August 9, 1962. "Never have I lived as beautifully as here in Ticino," he admitted in 1954 in his poem "Dank ans Tessin," which translated would be "Thanks to Ticino".