Eco-friendly fashion: "Upcycling" in Africa
Kenyan fashion designers want to turn waste into clothes, sculpture and jewelry. They call it "Upcycling." The products look traditional, modern and are eco-friendly.
London- Paris – Nairobi
The Kenyan capital, Nairobi, has long been known as a fashion metropolis. Many of its designs are genuinely original and eco-friendly. This trend is known as "Upcycling." Waste and other discarded materials are turned into new products. In Europe's throwaway society, "Upcycling" may be a minority pursuit, but in Africa it's a part of daily life.
Recycled for the catwalk
"Second Life" is Nike Gilager Kondakis's new collection made from recycled clothes. They have been stitched together from second hand clothes imported from Europe by the ton. Such imports are the reason why East Africa now produces fewer fabrics and less leather. The old clothing is cut into thin strips, which are then spun into a thread for making new clothes. This could be a Bolero or shirt.
From shards into a work of art
Glass waste, just like unwanted plastic, is a raw material which can be found in Kenya in abundance. In Kitengela, south of Nairobi, German artist Nani Crozi has built an important eastern African workshop for decorative glass. About 40 artistic professionals live and work here. In this artists' village, tons of glass waste are crushed and then melted down in furnaces.
Colorful Accessories
The Kitengela artists are known, among other things, for their unique, handmade glass beads, which are especially sought after by many fashion designers in the region. Custom-made designs can also be ordered. The beads are either sold or used for artistic work in the village.
Working hard at art
Kibe Patrick has been living and working in Kitengela's artistic community for four years. "I've always been recycling things artistically," he said. He now combines his previous sheet metal recycling work with Kitengela glass beads to produce something quite original.
Green Art
Kibe Patrick has been making money from his art ever since he arrived in Kitengela. As well as being a source of income, his pieces are also eco-friendly. Africa is awash with plastic, glass and metal waste. No industry is recycling waste. Those who work with waste help to bring down energy consumption, reduce air and water pollution and greenhouse gas emissions.
Jewelry made of trash
Jewelry designer Marie Rose Iberli uses Kitengela glass beads in her collections. She also makes beads herself out of paper, bone, horn and aluminum. "As a designer I'm fascinated particularly by the natural limitations of these materials," she said. "That makes them more interesting than, let's say, plastic - a material with which you can do almost anything."
From the material to the idea
Is it made of horn or bone, is it recycling or "upcycling," sometimes Iberli doesn't like to be too specific. It's different, though, when she's working with aluminium. From old engine parts she can turn out high quality jewelry. Interestingly, it's the material itself that is often the source of inspiration.
Traditions and trends
Iberli says she likes very much the idea of picking up things and re-using them to create new products. Like fellow artist Nai Croze, she comes from Germany and the immediate postwar era made a deep impression on her. Call it recycling or "upcycling," art from Kitengela is steeped in tradtion and is also shaping new trends. It's something Europeans appreciate.